Loose Leash
A loose leash is a connection between the person and the dog.
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Pulling on a lead (Dogs naturally don’t pull, when they want to go somewhere they just go.)Walking on a lead for a dog is like learning to drive a human. When they are attached to a harness/collar and a lead, at some stage they would have naturally pulled forward applying pressure to the harness or collar at this time you both moved forward. The dog has learnt pressure on the harness/collar is the accelerator. When you reach the end of the road or the dog has stopped to sniff something the leash goes lose the pressure is reduced from the harness while you both have stopped. The dog has learnt loose leash with no pressure on the collar or harness is the break.
Devices like choke chains, and prong collars, don't teach your dog not to pull they simply make it painful when they do. This is like putting a nail in your accelerator pedal so you don't press it too hard. It doesn’t teach them what to do, it simply adds another level of stress to their walk and at times when they see something extremely stimulating and do pull they will cause physical harm to themselves and may even associate the object they’re pulling towards with the pain they feel and this can lead to unwanted reactivity issues.
If your dog has already learnt the habit of pulling teaching them to walk on a loose leash in conjunction with counter conditioning their pulling can help them understand how to fulfill the function of getting to where they want to go without having to drag you there.
Why to teach a dog to walk on a loose leash
- It is better for the physical and mental health of your dog.
- It makes walks more pleasurable for the human and the dog.
- It is a lot safer for both of you especially if walking on a busy street or near potential hazards.
- It reduces the chances of physical injury for both you and your dog.
- It helps you become a participant in the walk rather than an anchor holding the dog back all the time.
Equipment required:
A well-fitting Harness
A long line around 5m in length
Your dogs favourite treats, a treat pouch and a tiny plastic box.
How to teach loose leash walking
Step 1. The connection (What does a loose leash feel and look like)
- Start In a low-stimulus environment like at home or in your back yard have the dog on a leash by your side. With you and your dog facing the same direction, Cue a touch (Hand target) with your hand next to your thigh. (Mark and reward) repeat a few times.
- Now simply wait. When your dog looks up at you mark move 2 steps further and reward in the same position as step 2.
- As the dog gets the behaviour start to add more setep and increase the time between marking and rewarding.
- While walking put very slight directional pressure on the leash and start to turn. When your dog starts turning release the leash pressure, then continue to mark and reward.
- When your dog starts to understand the position you want them to be in start to add in more steps.
- Progress on to turning and walking a few steps before rewarding.
- Add some speed, swap sides and practise turning in different directions. Now repeat step 1 in a more challenging environment like the front yard or the park at a quiet hour.
Step 2. Adding Value (Why its better to go places with you)
- In a low-stimulus environment like your backyard or the park during quiet hours have the dog on a long leash.
- Start to move slowly around the area. When your dog moves to the end of the leash stop, add a tiny bit of pressure when the dog releases the pressure and comes back to your side, release the pressure and mark and reward the behaviour at your side. Remember it's not just the dog that controls the leash. (You both are connected through the leash)
- When the dog is at your side use your Verbal marker then reward with the "Let's Go" cue and take the dog back to the spot they were exploring before. this time check out the area with them drop a few treats around and use the "Wow" or "whats this" cues to direct your dog to the rewards. (Exploring is better together)
- Now start to wander around the yard again. When your dog wanders off and gets to the end of their leash drop a treat on the floor, stop and bend down on the ground over it pretending like you found something exciting. Don't let your dog simply get the treat and make a fuss over it. (I know all the best spots)
- Start to wander around the yard again. When your dog gets to the end of their leash, pause with your legs slightly bent and your body weight forward as if you were preparing to jump on something in front of you. Don't pull don't add pressure just wait for them to come back to you and investigate. When they are back at your side INITIATE PLAY. bring a toy out of your pocket, throw a treat for them to chase, or simply run around taking turns getting chased and chasing your dog. (You are where the FUN is). End the game by wandering to a spot together and doing a Go Sniff.
- Fill a small plastic box with some high-value treats, When walking while your dog is walking in front of you drop the box on the ground. Move a few steps forward, and gently add pressure on the leash to get the dog to stop. When they look back at you use the "Find it" cue to take your dog to the food. When your dog finds the box, open it for them and give them the food inside, then continue on your walk. If you do this often enough it will teach the dog to start to slow down to avoid missing things in the future. (Slow down and smell the roses)
- Every time the dog is walking next to you like in step 1 mark and reward. after all the simplest is always the best.
- Slowly add more distractions at home like the kids running around or noises in the environment, and when you are confident start to practice these exercises in a more distracting area.
Counter conditioning pulling on the leash
Pulling on the leash is a self-rewarding behaviour as the dog gets to go forward and reaches that sought-after object or smell, they associate that it was pulling you that got them there. Over time it becomes an engrained behaviour. To change this behaviour we first need to switch the signals around.
Pressure on the collar or harness through the leash = Brake,
A loose collar, harness and no pressure from the leash = Accelerator.
For those of you who have been driving for years and are so used to the break being on the left and the accelerator on the right, if we were to suddenly switch them around and get you to drive in a busy street imagine the chaos that would cause, not to mention the frustration you would feel.
Tips to use When counter-conditioning your dog who has learnt to pull to walking on a loose leash.
- Be patient, remember your dog needs time to master a new skill.
- Avoid rehersal of bad behaviour. This may even mean practicing leash walking at home and driving to the park in the start.
- Practice loose leash walking towards the end of the walk when the dog is less likely to be overstimulated by the environment.
- Walk back the same way you went when on a walk so that the dog is less focused on the environment and more focused on you.
- BE CONSISTENT if pulling works sometimes with some people it slows down the learning of the new behaviour.
How to re teach a dog to walk on a loose leash
For the best chance of success start above and teach loose-leash walking in a low-stimulus environment.
the techniques below can help you to retrain the dog's brain while pulling and teach them how to fulfil the function of behaviour politely.
A short lead is constantly tigh and the dog simply learns that is how walks feel. A long line is the first step to teaching your dog that a loose lead = movement and it gives both you and your dog the freedom to explore on the walk at your own pace.
A 5m long line is ideal. Please check out this Great video by Battersea on how to use a long line properly.
To condition Pressure on the collar or harness through the leash = Brake, and A loose collar, harness and no pressure from the leash = Accelerator. you can try the techniques below.
Understanding the basics of what leash pressure means for your dog.
- Start a walk in a low stimulus environment, on a 5m long line with your dog on their harness. Hold the leash at a safe length
- When your dog puts pressure on the leash slow down then stop. Wait for the pressure to release and start walking again. A good way to condition ourselves to do this is to have the leading hand of the leash loose by our side, when the pressure lifts our hand stop, and when your hand drops back down walk.
- When you want to stop hold the leash between your fingers and slowly let it run through while increasing the pressure. This teaches your dog to notice the subtle pressure on their harness or collar rather than a jerking start-stop motion and will make for a smoother walk. Release the pressure when your dog is at a complete stop to allow them to rebalence their body and then slowly bring a little tension back to remind them that pressure = Stop. (once your dog has mastered the skill you can simply leave the leash loose and mark and reward any eye contact youre getting) You can also use another excelent technique by Grisha Stewart called Mime pulling. where you run your hands gently up a length of the line gently pulling it towards you and adding a little pressure.
- When there is no pressure on the lead mark Followed by "Lets Go" or some other functional reward and walk in the direction your dog wants to go at a brisque pace.
Technique 1. I am the rock. (Great for dogs who pull hard towards stimulus)
- Start a walk in a low stimulus environment, on a 5m long line with your dog on their harness. When the dog gets to the end of the line, Stop and hold the leash at your belly to brace yourself.
- When the dog turns back and returns to your side mark and reward.
- Continue walking with your dog and repeat as necessary
Technique 2. Back and forth. (Great for dogs that like to walk at 100kmph to get to their destination)
- Start a walk in a low stimulus environment, on a 5m long line with your dog on their harness. When the dog rushes to the end of the line, Hold the leash at your belly, turn your body and start walking in the opposite direction.
- When the dog turns back and catches up to your side mark and reward.
- Then turn around again and continue walking with your dog on the original path.
- Repeat as necessary.
Technique 3. Off at an angle. (Great for strong dogs or for dogs who suddenly pull in random directions)
- Start a walk in a low stimulus environment, Clip your 5m long line to the front attachment on your dog's harness. When the dog rushes to the end of the line, move your body at an angle. and start walking in that direction.
- When the dog turns back and catches up to your side mark and reward.
- Then turn at an angle again and continue walking with your dog on the original path.
- Repeat as necessary.
Check out the videos below to see how other amazing trainers from around the world teach loose-leash walking.
More amazing resources
Grisha Stewart Academy, Smiling leash,